THE MOST COMPLICATED DISH I'VE EVER MADE.
By Ben Miller
One semi-popular family vacation destination growing up was Williamsburg, Va. While I have fond memories of posing for pictures in a stockade and wearing silly tri-cornered hats, the thing that stuck with me the most from these trips was a dessert from a local restaurant called the Trellis. Known as "Death by Chocolate," this wasn't any ordinary dessert. Instead, it was a flourless brownie topped with chocolate ganache, followed by a cocoa meringue topped with mocha mousse, followed by another chocolate brownie topped with chocolate ganache and frosted with chocolate mousse, and served on top of a chocolate rum sauce. The cake was so complicated that it took three days to assemble and contained about 1,300 calories per slice when cut into 12 portions. (I personally served about 30 people with this cake, so the calories were far more reasonable.)
Admittedly, I'm not even sure I ever actually had a slice of the cake the time my family ate at the Trellis, but I was always intrigued by the idea of a dish both so absurd in terms of its content and so involved that it took three days just to complete.
Until this summer, however, I had never actually attempted to make death by chocolate. Prompted by a co-worker's upcoming departure from the New America Foundation, I decided to give it a shot. (And by I, I mean I had substantial assistance from my colleague, Sarah Axeen, who not only helped prepare most of the cake, but also took pictures and let me turn her kitchen into a chocolate mess.)
So how was it? Let's just say despite its aesthetics (which were lacking because of my inability to properly frost the cake) death by chocolate does not disappoint. Of course, when something uses over three pounds of chocolate, four cups of cream, and 15 eggs, how could it be anything but rich and delicious?
After the jump, the lengthy recipe and more pictures.
Because death by chocolate has several components I'm going to post a complete ingredients list a the top and then a separate list for each piece.
Combined Ingredients
2 pounds, 13 ounces semisweet chocolate
5 1/2 ounces unsweetened chocolate
4 3/4 cups heavy cream
3 1/4 cups granulated sugar
15 eggs
15 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon unsalted butter
10 tablespoons cocoa
8 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon all-purpose flour
1/2 cup water
5 tablespoons instant coffee
2 tablespoons sour cream
1 tablespoon corn starch
2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
2 teaspoons dark rum
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/8 teaspoon cream of tarter
In reality, you could probably make this cake in one day, but it would be a lengthy undertaking. Split over three nights it's far more reasonable, and the various components keep just fine for a day or two.
Day 1: Chocolate Brownie
The recipe calls for using a springform pan. I didn't actually have one, which may have made things less visually pleasing, but a round cake pan still worked just as well. You do really need an electric mixer of some sort, it's a pretty good workout to whisk egg whites by hand until stiff.
Chocolate Brownie Ingredients
3 ounces semisweet chocolate, broken into 1/2 ounce pieces
4 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon unsalted butter, softened
1 1/2 ounces unsweetened chocolate, broken into 1/2 ounce pieces
3 eggs
1/4 cup granulated sugar
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
8 tablespoons, plus 1 teaspoon all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
2 tablespoons sour cream
Directions
1. Preheat the oven to 325 degrees.
2. Create a double boiler by heating some water over medium-high heat in a pot and placing a second pot on top so that it fits snugly and is not quite touching the water.
3. Place 3 ounces semisweet chocolate, 4 tablespoons butter, and 1 1/2 ounces unsweetened chocolate on the top part of the broiler. Cover it with film wrap and heat it for 6 to 7 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir until smooth.
4. Whisk the eggs, 1/4 cup sugar, 1 teaspoon vanilla in a bowl until it thickens. Coat a 9 x 1 1/2 inch cake pan with butter. Flour the pan with roughly 1 teaspoon and shake out the excess.
5. Combine the chocolate and egg mixtures.
6. Add 8 tablespoons flour, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon baking powder into the combined mixture.
7. In a separate bowl, whisk 2 tablespoons of sour cream and then combine it with the other mixture.
8. Pour the mixture into the cake pan and bake it for about 30 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in the middle comes out clean. Let the brownie cool for a bit before trying to remove it. If you are preparing this a day or two beforehand you can just let it sit and it comes out pretty easily.
Day 2: Meringue and Rum Sauce
This was actually the longest day of cooking because the meringue has to bake for several hours. Make sure you save yourself a lot of time this night.
Meringue Ingredients
4 egg whites
1/8 teaspoon cream of tartar
1/8 teaspoon salt
1 1/4 cups granulated sugar
2 tablespoons cocoa, sifted
1 tablespoon corn starch
Directions
1. Preheat the oven to 225 degrees
2. Whisk 4 eggs whites with an electric mixer on medium speed until frothy, about 1 minute. Add the cream of tartar and salt, increase mixer speed to high and whisk until the egg whites begin to stiffen, about 1 to 2 minutes. Gradually add a 1/2 cup sugar while continuing to mix. Pause and clean down the sides of the bowl.
3. Add the remaining 3/4 cup of sugar and keep whisking until soft peaks form, about 3 minutes.
4. Stop the mixer and add in the cocoa and cornstarch.
5. Take a 9-inch cake pan and trace it's outline on a sheet of parchment paper on a cookie sheet. This will serve as your guide for pouring the meringue. Turn over the sheet so the marked side is down and then weigh down the corners.
6. Pour the mixture into a pastry bag with a straight tip and fill in the circle starting at the middle and spiraling outward.
7. Place the meringue in the oven and bake for 15 minutes. Reduce the temperature to 200 degrees and bake for an additional 2 hours and 45 minutes. Take it out and let it cool before removing it from the sheet.
Chocolate Rum Sauce Ingredients
1/4 pound unsalted butter
1 cup granulated sugar
1 cup heavy cream
1/3 cup cocoa, sifted
2 teaspoons dark rum (we ended up using whiskey instead and it turned out fine)
1/8 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon instant coffee
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
Directions
1. Heat butter in a saucepan over medium heat. When hot, add in the sugar, cream, cocoa, rum, and salt.
2. Bring to a boil and then let simmer for 5 minutes.
3. Remove from heat, add in coffee and vanilla extract.
4. Serve at room temperature.
Day 3: Ganache, two kinds of mousse, and assembly
Constructing the cake actually does take some time because you have to periodically refrigerate it to make the various layers hold together, so make sure you save yourself some time.
Chocolate Ganache Ingredients
22 ounces semisweet chocolate broken into 1/2 ounce pieces
1 1/2 cups heavy cream
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
Directions
1. Create another double boiler under medium-high heat.
2. Place chocolate, cream, and butter on the top half of the boiler and cover with plastic wrap. Heat for 3 minutes, remove the wrap, stir, and continue heating for 2 more minutes.
3. Remove from heat and stir until smooth.
Chocolate Mousse Ingredients
6 ounces semisweet chocolate, broken into 1/2 ounce pieces
1 1/2 cups heavy cream
3 egg whites
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
Directions
1. Prepare a double boiler over medium heat and place the chocolate in it. Cover with plastic wrap and let cook for 10 minutes. Remove from heat
2. Place cream in a bowl that has been cooled in a fridge or freezer. Whisk on high with an electric mixer for 1 1/2 minutes, wipe down sides of the bowl and then whisk again for 1 minute until peaks form.
3. In a separate bowl, whisk egg whites until peaks form. Add the sugar and whisk another 1 to 1 1/2 minutes until peaks form again.
4. Add one-quarter of the cream to the chocolate and combine. Then add in the egg whites and the rest of the cream and fold ingredients together.
Mocha Mousse Ingredients
14 ounces semisweet chocolate, broken into 1/2 ounce pieces
4 ounces unsweetened chocolate, broken into 1/2 ounce pieces
1/2 cup water
1/4 cup instant coffee
2 tablespoons cocoa, sifted
2 egg yolks
5 egg whites
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
3/4 cup heavy cream
Directions
1. Create a double boiler over medium high heat. Add both kinds of chocolate, water, coffee, and cocoa into the top half of the boiler. Cover with film wrap and heat for 5 to 7 minutes. Remove film wrap and stir until smooth.
2. Add egg yolks and continue to stir until smooth. Remove from heat.
3. Whisk 5 egg whites on high speed with an electric mixer until peaks form, about 2 to 3 minutes. Add in sugar and continue whisking until stiff, 2 minutes.
4. Whisk the heavy cream in a chilled bowl with an electric mixer until stiff. Fold a quarter of the egg whites into the chocolate mixture. Then add in the cream, followed by the rest of the egg whites.
Once all the components are made, it's time to construct death by chocolate. Here, a springform pan will help aesthetically because you can get the cake to fit into a perfect circle and then easily remove it.
Assembly Instructions
1. Cut the chocolate brownie in half horizontally and place one half in the bottom of a closed springform pan.
2. Ladle 1 1/2 cups of the ganache over the brownie.
3. Trim the meringue such that it fits perfectly over the brownie. Place it, top side up, on top of the brownie and press down gently to eliminate air pockets.
4. Spoon all of the mocha mousse over the meringue, spreading it evenly.
5. Place the other half of the chocolate brownie on top. Take the pan and place it in the freezer for 30 minutes or the fridge for 1 hour to help set the cake.
6. Remove the cake from the springform pan and pour the rest of the ganache over the cake, spreading evenly. Refrigerate for another 10 to 15 minutes.
7. Pour the chocolate mousse into a pastry bag with a star tip. Pipe a row of stars touching each other around the edge of the cake and then continue around the rest of the top until it is completely covered. Refrigerate again for at least 4 and preferably 12 hours before serving.
When serving the cake, pour some of the chocolate rum sauce on a plate, and then use a knife that has been run under hot water to cut slices. Place the piece of cake on top of the plate and enjoy.
Below are a series of pictures from making the cake.
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COMMENTS (9)
Well kudos to you. I would have been furious if I spent 3 days cooking a dish packed with that many sweets and I didn't even get any. Well done though, I bet it's delicious even though it doesn't really look it.
Posted by: Sybervision Diet Pills | August 14, 2008 10:37 AM
Well kudos to you. I would have been furious if I spent 3 days cooking a dish packed with that many sweets and I didn't even get any. Well done though, I bet it's delicious even though it doesn't really look it.
Posted by: Sybervision Diet Pills | August 14, 2008 10:38 AM
I worked at the Trellis waiting tables for about a year back in the mid 90s and we sold a LOT of Death by Chocolate, usually we would recommend that people share a slice amongst two or even three people, although every once in a while we would get a brave soul who would try to eat it all in one sitting. as far as restaurant jobs go it wasn't bad...
Posted by: eric | August 14, 2008 11:23 AM
That really sounds good. I think you're right that your structural problems are a result of not assembling the cake in a springform pan -- it would have held the ganache and mousses in place until they could chill to firmness. But what the hell, it's a cake, not a skyscraper. A little shifting and slumping isn't going to kill anyone.
Posted by: Kevin W. Baker | August 14, 2008 2:51 PM
Ye gods! That's the most hideous thing I have ever seen. Looks like an alien creature that first mesmerizes, then smothers, then devours it's prey.
"Don't look at it!"
"It's beauuuuutifullll!"
"NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!"
Posted by: ibc | August 14, 2008 3:02 PM
Frankly, I thought it looked like a baked-bean-upside-down-cake. The thought of which makes my stomach turn.
Posted by: NBarnes | August 14, 2008 4:29 PM
reminds me of my recipe for soylent green!
Posted by: bdbd | August 15, 2008 10:02 AM
OMG I must try this. Thanks for the recipe. If all goes well, I will invent an annual party as an excuse.
I start and end every day with a chocolate drink.
Posted by: ajw_93 | August 15, 2008 1:12 PM
yeah - looks like a pile of baked beans... gross.
U should have re-iced it and put it on a clean platter.
even if it tasted good, i'd say... fail! hahaha
Posted by: the dony | May 29, 2009 1:38 PM